Keep That Needley Thing From Wilting: Part 1

This past weekend I spent the weekend trek through the woods somewhere in Central, PA. Do not ask me where...I was not driving. I was asked to tag a long with friends of mine of there trip to nowhere. I love the outdoors as much as the next person. I mean look at me I run a nature preserve but there's something about trekking out into a farm of nothing but Christmas trees that rubs me the wrong way, but to each their own.


I decided to focus this week on proper Christmas tree selection and care because oddly enough, I know very few people who actually know what to do beyond the "chop" and "put up." There's a little more to it, especially if you're like me and want that thing up till Epiphany (the day after the 12 days of Christmas). 

First, the tree you select should look healthy and should put up some kind of a fight when you go to chop it down. No...I do not mean it'll punch you back but the branches should be springy, pointed ideally upwards (depending on the type) and seem green, no brown needles. One simple test is by check a inside branch near the top. Is the branch flimsy and spring, noting dampness or brittle and weak, showing dryness and an unhealthy tree. Do the needle test next. Shake some of the branches. Do the needles fall off? Are there lot's of needles on the ground? Take the time and check. You'd hate to come home and find a naked tree is a few days. If you are at a Christmas tree lot, run the same tests. Good lot's will allow you to do this and in fact, many lot's today temporarily "plant" their trees in the ground to protect them from damage.

You found your dream tree. It has the right height, fullness, and no gaps. First, if you a chopping the tree down, leave at least a few inches extra on the tree. You will need to trim the tree trunk again later (like flowers you get from the grocery store). Cut at an angle, never horizontally. You can severely damage the absorption systems in the tree if you preforming a strait cut. 


I strongly recommend netting or twist tying your tree. It's keep it's branches safer on your trip home. Some people hesitate doing this for fear that they will permanently damage the tree. 

There's more to do once the tree get home to prep and get it ready for indoors but we'll discuss that next time. Hopefully, this has been helpful. Please send us your photos or tip via our facebook page or on twitter.

Betsy

A Little Less Salt with My Snow

I was considering writing a post about making your own garland from pine trees or those left overs you sometimes find a tree lot’s but with 8 inches of snow and another possible 4 tomorrow I wanted to touch on the subject of snow removal, specifically the use of rock salt and it’s effect on your garden and the environment.

Rock Salt is a natural occurring mineral that is mass "harvested" to prevent ice from forming. It does not “melt” ice. Instead, it actually has a lower freezing point then water and makes it almost impossible for ice to form. This substance is used is high frequency here in PA. Instead of traditional rock salt pelts, Penn dot now brine road to reduce salt use.

For personal use, I have mixed emotions. The reality is that rock salt is cheap, effective and for the most part natural. However, as you here references to in the Bible, salt can wreak havoc on your yard, killing plant and making your soil alkaline, preventing future growth. Here at RNP, we selectively use rock salt; using it in the areas of the park that are far away from the greenery.

There are alternatives to rock salt such as “ice melters” that claim to protect your plants. The same product exists that claims to pet friendly. I would be VERY careful with these liquids. They are not organic and the impact on the environment has not been fully evaluated.

Many people use sand, dirt and even kitty litter. Sand and dirt are great choices as long as they have no chemical additives. Many sandbox sands actually have been treated with bleach and other chemicals to preserve their light color. Kitty litter can be used as well, again if it’s all natural.

If we are into a long term winter icing a la 1996. I may consider constructing a “board walk” nailing logs into the ice. I hope never to have to do that again.

I’m off to do another walk though of the park, prior to the next 4 inches of snow to be sure the plants that need coverings are still doing okay following this morning’s assault.

Betsy

The Procrastination Bulber

We are into mid-December and talking about landscaping and plants this time of years can be a futile efforts. The leaves are off the trees and were recently cleaned up off the streets, we’ve had several hard frosts and thaws but we have yet to see our first snow.

In this bleak weather, we should not forget that there is still sometime time to plant some of those perennial spring bulbs.

Tulips 

Daffodils

Crocus'

These three flowers are among the prettiest early spring bloomers that do not require much effort on the Gardner’s part and are a great project for kids to start learning about gardening and landscaping.

The difficult for procrastinating planters (like myself) is finding bulbs this time of year. Most experts recommend planting spring bulbs in late October to early Novembers or in-between the first soft freeze and the first “hard” freeze. This is ideal however, here in South Eastern, PA, the climate is never quite the same and the ground does not typically cool of and freeze hard until late December (if at all). For this reason many gardening centers do not carry bulbs this time of year.

Thankfully, the internet can solve this problem. A search through garden centers, amazon or even just a google search will yield ample places to purchase bulbs. Even nicer, is the lower cost to the consumer. Buyer beware: if it’s too good of a deal, it probably is. Be sure to research the manufacturer, the distributer to be sure the bulbs you are purchasing are of good quality.

To plant your bulb

1.       Dig a hole about 2-2.5 inches deep.

2.        If you use fertilizer, place the fertilizer in the hole.

 place a layer of dirt between the fertilizer and the bulbs. Some people like to use bonemeal as well. There are benefits to using it but it does attract animals.

3.       Place the bulb with the pointed end up. The roots on most bulbs are visible through the bottom in-case you forget.

4.       Cover with dirt.

5.       After settling for a few hours, water your bulb. It’s ok if it freezes, it will not kill it. Don’t over water it either. It will become moldy and rot.

And we play then the waiting game. This is a great way to teach your kids and get them outdoors. They will learn a lot of good lessons from hard work and reward, patience and is a great way to get them away from that TV.

The bulbs should start to pop up in mid to late February. Crocus’ can bloom anywhere from late February until early April. Daffodils may start to open in Mid March through early May and tulips April into May. The flowers should be watered frequently, however recent years, flowers in the spring have not needed much watering.

Well, I’m off to go do some bulb planting around my home here at the Radnor Nature Preserve. I’ll be posting some photos soon.

Betsy